Saturday, November 8, 2008

CHALLENGE ONE WINNER

...and the winner is LARRAINE!!




Project Dollway at Home is pleased to present the winner of the first challenge. We are including all the pictures submitted by Larraine, and the decisions by the judges that gave this designer the win. Ironically, this designer was just interviewed, so you can read her interview on our blog.

When Gabby gave her the news, she had this to say: "Oh my goodness, Gabby, I am sooooooooo excited. Wow, I'm speechless. I'm over the moon!!! I am even more inspired, if that is possible. Well, now I'm going back to those pleats with enthusiasm. Thank you so much for letting me know what that little birdie said, LOL!!! Wooooohooooo!!!"




Winning Points:


(Numbers from left to right represent Theme, Originality, Execution, and Total).


Larraine's collection:
I chose the sixties as my vintage era, partly because I grew up in the sixties and loved the variety of styles, from Austin Powers to Flower Children, and partly because of the use of bold color and wild patterns. Anything seemed to go together in the sixties!!! I would like to take this bold use of color and build the collection on it by bringing this boldness of color to the styles of the 21st Century!!!

Judge 1
5 5 5 Total 15 Super all around
Judge 2
4 3 4 Total 11 Good interpretation of the 70's. Loved the bag and the long vest and the peace sign. The color is very indicative of the 70's. I like it.Over all construction looks pretty good.
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 Bright, colorful, very 60's. Garments fit well. I like the coat, but aren't the shorts too long for this era?
Total points: 34

Also, here is the Point System the judges used for this competition:
Points go from 5 - 1, with five being the best , in these three categories:


1) Designer's interpretation of the theme, Vintage. How successful were they?


2) Originality (the style)... Is it different or does it look like something you have seen before in fashion... accessories... color.


3) Execution: How well is the garment made? Does it look finished? Are there clean edges? Ironed? The full presentation.

The most a designer can acquire from the judges is 15 points, but some people also received the extra 1/2 point awarded to those who sent their garments in before the end of the tenth day of the challenge.


Here is how the judges critiqued the rest of us, and our points. Also, the artist's original notes are included - can you see their vision?
(Numbers from left to right represent Theme, Originality, Execution, and Total).



Entry #1 - Kevin

Kevin's collection:
This is my homage to the 40's & 50's, The Dress is made from Dupioni silk in a muted lavender shade and has a steel gray dupioni trim at the bodice, the bodice is adorned with coordinating colors of seed beads in Lavender, Dark gray and genuine Sterling silver seed beads. The Dress features a side peplum on the left side of the dress in keeping with a vintage 50's type of style. While the bodice has a definent up to date bodice type. The outfit also features a Lavender brocade embroidered satin coat, lined in the steel gray dupioni, the sleeves of the coat end in a White faux fur and it closes with hook and eye closures, The coat is a super strong A-line design, Also has a matching hat done in the same lavender satin and has Tulle trim in Gray and Purple with silver seed beads. The accessories feature again my homage to a vintage CHANEL quilted handbag, fully functional also, The logo design on the front of the handbag is reminiscent of the classic CHANEL logo, but fits well with my CLICK designs.

Judge 1
3 2 3 Total 8 It is a very good interpretation of the style of the time, I do not feel there is much originality, but an overall polished feel to the ensemble
Judge 2
4 3 4 Total 11 the design does reflect the era described. I wasn't too sure about the fur cuffs, but that might just be a personal taste thing. Love the swing coat style and the hat. The dress was nice and I am sure the beading detail took a bit of time.
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 The colors coordinate well, and I like the peplum. The dress fits very well until it reaches the underarms where the band looks too wide. The beaded straps seem heavy for the neckline, narrower straps might work better. I like the A-line coat, but it would work better if the fabric were not as stiff.
1/2 point for early submssion
Total points: 26.5

Entry #2 - Gary


Gary's collection:
This is my entry for the first challenge titled " Vintage " This is a coat and dress ensemble with matching purse and shoes. It is made from magenta silk dupioni and lace. The coat is calf length and is sharply gored from the waist to the hem. It features long sleeves and is fully lined. The coat is accessorized with a round link silver tone belt. Under the coat we have a halter top dress with a fully gathered 6 panel skirt. The length of the skirt is also calf length. A petti-coat is used to keep the skirt's full shape. Contrasting lace was used for the halter top. It has over the shoulder straps that criss-cross in the back and features a back zipper closure and has a matching belt with the silver tone buckle centered at side front of the dress. Finally this ensemble is accessorized with pendant earrings and an attached matching pendant for the halter top. All accessories, belts, shoes, purse, earrings and pendant along with the dress and coat were designed and created by me using sewing patterns drafted especially for this challenge. The hair design was also created by me using the doll's original rooted hair with matching pink streaks scattered throughout the spiked up do. There were several sources of inspiration for this design. There is obviously a mix of different styles and elements all very popular during the 50's and 60's. I wanted to create something that would appeal to the modern young lady and also be fun. Originally I did not plan to create the coat, but what an easy way to take the dress from day wear to a sophisticated and well accessorized evening wear ensemble. This was an extremely exciting and fun design for me to work with.


Judge 1
3 3 4 Total 10 Ensemble is fantastically sewn with an amazing color scheme.
Judge 2
4 4 5 Total 13 Loved the over all look. However, I would rather have seen the neckline bobble used as a closure adornment at the waistline of the coat. I think with the bobble at the neckline and the belt buckle kind of fight each other and I am not sure about the chain belt with this outfit. The workmanship is Ideal
Judge 3
3 3 4 Total 10 I see a mix of 50's skirt with the 60's halter top, and like the effect it creates. The fits is good, the colors blend well.

1/2 point for early submission
Total points: 33 .5

Entry #3 - Aly


Aly's collection:
Lana Lang, former first lady and CEO of Lexcorp, attends a fundraiser for the Metropolis Historical Society. Taking her fashion inspiration from the 1940's, Lana wear a backless gold silk bias cut gown with paisley brocade and a maroon chiffon hem accent. A beaded gold lace shrug with bronze silk trim and a simple feather with sheer ribbon in her flame hair completes the look.

Judge 1
1 2 1 Total 4 It's a very nice gown... A little overdone . Wished there was more meat to it.
Judge 2
4 4 4 Total 12 I liked the outfit and it does definitely have the feel of the chosen time period. The colors are great. The bead work is very good. And while I liek the hemline treatment, I am not sure that it is indicative of the time period, but I think it did add a finishing element and considered it a plus. The creation was very well made
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 Beautiful beadwork on the jacket, but to the extent that it takes away from the gown. The gown can stand alone quite nicely, but I would like to have seen the dress back without the jacket. I like the cross-over bodice, and the colors coordinate well with the gold.
1/2 point for early submission

Total points: 23.5

Entry #4 - Joan

Joan's collection: The dark red cotton velvet coat had it's roots in Vasilisa's past... Tonner describes her as Red Riding Hood with a twist...so I knew my key piece of clothing would need to pay homage to her tradition but be totally updated. The lining is a Ralph Lauren wool paisley. The reverse box pleated caplet back was designed to show it to advantage. The clasp is from a set of antique buttons in my collection. The high-waisted red/black moire skirt and silk paisley blouse are meant to contrast the bulk of the coat. Tiny tucks in the blouse add to the romantic innocence of the gothically dark outfit. Her laced back boots and gloves are black pleather. The boots have black velvet covering the lasts. Her purse is moire with a tiny silver buckle and satin ribbon trim. Her necklace pays homage to her Russian Orthodox ancestry.

Judge 1
2 3 3 Total 8 I really like this ensemble. I think the color palette is fantastic, just not sure of the time period b/c of the modern boots, deco birds and 40's pencil skirt.
Judge 2
3 4 4 Total 11 I like the outfit. I does match the personification of the client and the elements all go together. I am not sure what period is really reflected. The dress did not scream at me of any particular period. The coat reminded be of a Sherlock Holmes coat and I did like it very much. The construction was great
Judge 3
2 3 4 Total 9 The dress fits very well and the bodice tucks are a nice touch. I like design of the coat, and its inverted pleat, but the coat is too bulky.


1/2 point for early submission
Total points: 28.5



Entry #5 - Stacy


Stacy's collection:
The dress is made of an iridescent purple taffeta which has black flocked and silver glitter polka dots on it. The sleeves, waist sash, bustle trim and bows are of black satin charmuse. Black lace peeks from beneath the skirt. It snaps up the back with 4/0 black snaps. The bodice lining and petticoat are made of a polyester posh lining fabric. Lavender tulle was used for the petticoat which has an added ruffle to fill out the "bustle" in the back of the dress. The pantyhose are made from a black micro mesh and the shoes and purse are of the same black charmuse. The inspiration for this dress was a 1950's blouse pattern from my grandmother's pattern stash. I altered the shoulder to become a dropped shoulder and will use this element in other designs in my collection.


Judge 1
1 1 2 Total 4 The lining was done well, but the design confused and seemed too out of date even for the projected time frame.
Judge 2
4 5 5 Total 14 Love the description to the dress and how the design was inspired. Great ideas. I enjoyed viewing this design and would absolutely love to see this in person to really see it.Another perfect entry
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 The taffeta is nice, and the bustle effect lends interest to the back of the dress. The dropped shoulder works for this dress, but I feel the front is lacking a little zing.


1/2 point for early submission
Total points: 25 .5


Entry 6 - Sue


Sue's collection:
My client: Sydney Chase is a strong young woman of 25. She works in business – her family own Chase Modelling and she has headed to London to oversea the UK branch. While in Britain she needs a wardrobe to fit in with the demands of her job in both professional and social fields. She also hopes to learn about the country and its heritage whilst living here. The British climate is changeable – no wonder it’s the most common topic of conversation – and her clothes need to bear this in mind. It might be warm in the centrally heated office but outside there could be arctic gales blowing. And that’s just October. Vintage: There were 3 possibilities in my mind – Dior New Look leading to the 50s, 1960s architectural fashion and Art Deco influenced 1920s. I eventually selected the period between the two world wars to focus on for my vintage. The over-riding reason was that I decided that the roots of modern design began then and it was the first time in history that women had the franchise and collectively were entering a new world. Dressing became easier and less restrictive – comfort was paramount, and for me the whole period symbolizes freedom. Sydney Chase is the role model for an empowered modern woman. Her lifestyle became possible because of the pioneering efforts of women during the 20th century. The freedom for women to move countries, be independant and single, as well as run a business are concepts not hard for us to imagine in 2008, but in 1928 it would have been a very different matter – things were just beginning to change for women. The Outfit consists of:Coat, Dress, Bag, Hat, Gloves. I decided to do a coat based on 20s style, with a simple dress underneath and accessories of bag, hat and gloves. The coat would be in a neutral colour with the aim of being wearable day and night. The dress underneath would also reference the 1920s but be totally believable for today’s workplace. It would also to be made in a neutral colour. Accessories would reflect it is 2008 and should not overwhelm the basic outfit. Comments on choice of fabric, notions and making up the items:- Coat: I had a beautiful left over piece of furnishing fabric with an art deco embroidered pattern. The embroidery is the same colour as the fabric so may not show well in pictures. I will add a close up. One of my pet hates is when fabric patterns don’t line up well in garments, so the placement of the Pattern pieces was very important. As was scaling a design down so that it didn’t overwhelm "doll" size – it is sofa fabric after all. I knew stiffness would be an issue and therefore had to keep the lines simple with little room for additional facing. I built the facings into the pieces so that the edges were topstitched rather than seamed hence avoiding bulk. Fraying was also a problem but I used a product recommended to me by other sewers and it worked very well. I tested for colour change and stiffness but the product did not cause any major problems. The fastening was an art deco trim I found in a local store – I didn’t want a lot of fastenings as the style of the 20s showed loose fitting oversized coats in many fabrics. The collar was cut from a recycled fur collar from a previously owned vintage coat.[Already in the sewing box – I can’t cut up old clothes LOL] It was my fist time of sewing fur and was easier than I had imagined. Again I didn’t want too much bulk so kept seams down to a minimum and oversewed the collar by hand. I debated adding fur to the cuffs – this would be fully in keeping with the 1920s but because it is 2008 I decided to keep the lines simpler and just hemmed the cuffs. When the gloves are on the model there will be enough texture and colour. I feel fur would make it fussier and be more predictable. Dress: The dress was meant to be a quick accessory to go under the coat. The fabric had tiny pleats and only needed 3 seams. The armholes were hand sewn under. As the pleats were so small sewing actually distorted the edges. However the fabric does not fray, so I left the top and bottoms unturned for sharpness. The design was based on a dress worn by Madame Poiret on a visit to Berlin in 1911. The T shaped dress she wore with drop shoulders and a boat neckline was described as "10 years ahead of its time". I liked the ease of the dress and its simplicity and versatility. The version I made was also simple and versatile -no creasing in the fabric – the dress can go from day to night. The collar was going to be a simple boat neck as Madame Poiret’s dress but the turned down neck to the front looked more interesting and modern. It made me think this was the 21st version of a quintessentially 1920s dress. I added a belt for interest and to help draw the eyes across the dress, but it works equally well without it. Accessories: Bag[Purse]-I used a small piece of the same collar to make a fur bag. I sewed it over the D ring by hand to make a bag which looks a little retro yet essentially modern. Hat-I debated making a fur hat but it’s not very British – so swapped the fur for a knitted beanie. I introduced another colour to add interest - ice-cream pink and it was knitted in a baby cashmarino wool. The design [both shape of hat and knitted pattern] was intended to reference back to the art deco period, yet again be up to the minute for 21st century living. Gloves-I knitted small matching gloves to go with the beanie hat. The cuff was raised to add texture to the ensemble. After several attempts I had to make the gloves fingerless in order to be wearable by the model. Photo Shoot- It was very difficult to pose the doll as she can stand unaided in the right shoes. However it was quite windy so I had to be very careful. The wind caused problems on the fur collar so in some pictures it looked fuller on one side. Another problem was depending on the photo angle the coat looked like it had creases when in fact it was the raised pattern on the fabric. I had to chose photos which best represented the garments. I couldn’t use my favourite picture as there was a similar one which better showed the fabric of the coat and the catch. The gloves looked best on the sideways picture.


Judge 1
3 2 3 Total 8 overall it's a success, though I'm confused by the wool cap, it cheapens the design. A satene hat would have made this 100 times better
Judge 2
5 5 4 Total 14 I love this one! It absolutely personifies the client and the 20's. Perfection on the dress and the coat. The hat and gloves were okay (not my favorite part of the outfit), but the coat and dress are perfect.When I first opened the pictures it made me gasp.
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 Simplicity of the dress style is made more elegant by the pleated fabric; the brocade fabric of the boxy coat works well with the dress. The knitted cap and gloves add a splash of color, but take away from the overall look.
1/2 point for early submission


Total points: 30.5


Entry #7 - Sande


Sande's collection:
My dress: i chose the late 60's-early 70's era for vintage, the era of Gunne Sax and Jessica McClintock. it's still my favorite style even though it was nearly 50 years ago. (How did that happen? LOL!!) lots of lace, ruffles, buttons, and leg o' mutton sleeves make a very romantic look, and bring back a time of more sweetness and innocence. My 2-piece dress is made from a burgundy, iridescent taffeta; the top is fully lined, including the sleeves. the front is accented with cream colored cotton laces, and satin ribbons, and a garnet and silver locket-brooch. the yoke of the skirt is lined as well; the skirt and top have 37 garnet buttons for a faux closure over the snaps. her earrings are burgundy dried roses with a peridot stone for a demure look. her shoes match the color of the dress, but have a more modern pointed toe than the squarish ones of that vintage period. a young woman of today would be happy to be dressed up in this style, whether going out to dinner, the theater, or to church. it's a dress for today, with shades of an earlier era. "Every stitch of this outfit, from basting to understitching, from seams to hemming, is lovingly hand stitched."


Judge 1
1 1 1 Total 3 If this dress was done in a lighter shade, I could possibly see where the prairie look of the 70's were inspired, however, the dark maroon gives the dress a Victorian that just confuses me. I think it is overworked and over thought and look forward to seeing the designers next piece.
Judge 2
3 3 3 Total 9 OKay, I have to admit I had to look up Gunne Sax and Jessica McClintack to see if I missed something here and I did. I remembered the Gunne Sax but only with cotton floral prints and not all of those buttons down the side. I did see a couple of a solid color dresses with the lace collars and some even with this sleeve elements. The earrings really didn't do much for me. The center bead was okay but it didn't flow with allof the buttons / beads down the side.Basically the construction is pretty good
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 I like the style and the color, the shoes match well. I like the pleated sleeve caps, and the idea that it is two pieces. I don't care for the 'buttons' . My eyes are drawn to them, taking me away from the design.
1/2 point for early submission


Total points: 20.5

Entry #8 - Larraine - WINNER!

Entry #9 -Cat


Cat's collection:
This design is a late 60's early 70's inspired cocktail outfit. I took inspiration from some Vogue and Bill Blass designs, then using the fabric I had available added my own interpretation. The fabric is a slumpy sheer lavender satin with a wiry feeling hand lined with blue liquid metallic. The jewelry is hand beaded on SS wire using Austrian leaded crystal and Japanese seed beads. My model is a Gene painted to look like my mother/grandmother. I left her hair long and pulled off her face with a hairband in the 60's-70's fashion.


Judge 1
1 2 1 Total 4 The dress looks very rushed.....bad mix of fabric, bad color.
Judge 2
2 3 3 Total 8 This is a pretty nice dress, but it looks much more like a disco 80's dress than a 60's early 70's dress.You did a good job working with this fussie fabric
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 I like this halter-neck style and it works well in this fabric with those subtle blue undertones. The ribbon looks out of place, and the dress is too long for this era.

Total points: 19

Entry #10 - Dal


Dal's collection:
I picked a vintage Licca for my model. She premiered in the late 60's in Japan so I will be exploring MOD design. The fabric chosen is a printed cotton with giant daisies in positive and negative flower graphics.I positioned and cut the fabric so that there was a definitive split of the graphics, making the halter dress less bulky with no seam down the center of the A-line dress.I also carefully cut the fabric so that I used an optimal section for the matching hat. The brim I chose to be solid orange.I added a silk "tie" in a mini black, white and orange print and topped it off with real "vintage" lace, edged in pink.Boots are from a vintage 60's clone doll.

Judge 1
4 3 2 Total 9 pattern work is great, could have done without the tie and the dress would have been perfect. great interp. love, love, love the hat!
Judge 2
4 3 3 Total 10 Definitely looks the period described. Accessories are cute. Nice use of fabric.Construction is pretty good. Nice workmanship on the hat. It looks like it was hand sewn and I may have been more careful with matcing the thread so the stitiches don't show.
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 Very 60's Mod. The fabric design is well placed, and I like the hat. The stitching around the armhole is distracting.
Total points: 26

Entry 11 - Pauline


Pauline's collection:
My vintage is "1957". My design is a hand knit 2 piece dress with detachable rabbit (recycled) fur collar. Accessories include "vintage" jewels of a fine cameo choker and demure peal earrings, to complete the dress is a skull cap hat and "Kelly" leather handbag with gold tone chain. Shoes by "Mattel" from the vintage shoe pack. This fashion was custom knit to showcase "Valia's" curves! She is class, style and graciousness!


Judge 1
4 3 2 Total 9 This is amazing! I love the rabbit, never be afraid of fur! I feel the gloves are too big for the ensemble and ruin it.
Judge 2
4 2 3 Total 9 Nice rendition of this time period. ( I can;t believe you knitted tis whole thing in the time frame you had! Wish I could knit that fast).This one has to be looked at with a different eye. The knited stitches are nice and even and in scale and blocked nicely. The fur trim looks like it was attached carefully. The hat is a nice touch as well.
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 A classic design, nice clean lines, good fit. The fur collar is overbearing, but its too much white. The accent of fur on the hat and the white of the gloves and bag are enough. Would like to see suit without the fur collar.
Total points: 26


Entry 12 - Gene


Gene's collection:
My inspiration for the Vintage challenge was actually my mother. Although I was only born in 1958, I have some recollection (and many photos) of her with very full skirts and varios sweaters an shawls with embroidery-hence the embroidery around Barbie's wrap. The fabric I used for the dress is black cotton with white polka dots and the white trim is a poly-cotton blend.
Judge 1
2 1 2 Total 5 Not original in it's style. Pokadot is a great fabric, but the dress needs something.
Judge 2
3 2 3 Total 8 The Construction was good. I didn't think the machine leaf stitching added anything spectacular to the piece. I can;t see what is hanging down the center of the back, it almost looks like "seams great" which is a seam finisher and is usually found on the inside of the garment.he dress does reflect the time period of the original Barbie.
Judge 3
2 2 2 Total 6 Black and white work well together, and I like the polka dots for this era. The white band could be narrower, a better fitting bodice would improve this dress. I could not see the back for the camera flash.
Total points: 19

Entry 13 - Agarva


Agarva's collection:
Shadi lives at Gray Manor with a large extended family. They live in seclusion in modern times, however, love their extreme traditional quite Victorian ways. Shadi is considered the ‘protector’ of the family and travels to ‘otherworlds’ to defend the honor of the family and female humanity. She requires outfits for both her ‘normal’ world and her ‘otherworld’ adventures.
Style/Era:La Belle Epoque/Edwardian, Ancient times.Elements from garments of these eras’s were taken and then modernised with shorter lengths and modern fabrics. This collection will be a combination of the above times that reflect the beauty and world of Shadi. She likes simple, fitted and elegant. Fabrics: A mix of both modern and classic fabrics types will be used throughout the collection. Silks and stretch fabrics will blend. Velvet, wools and feathers will also be encorporated. The First Challenge: "Vintage"The late Victorian era circa 1900 style elements were used for this outfit. Extremely large leg-of mutton sleeved blouse using a stretch net dotted lace was the base.Over the top is the high-waisted skirt shape seen in the La Belle Epoque era and the straighter line of the skirt. This was done in black dupion silk with a piped detailing at the high waist. The back has a pleated chiffon insert that falls to meet the slightly pleated chiffon skirt hem detail. This allows movement.Shadi wears her favourite boots with her black lace tights. A red silk bow completes her day look for a typical day at Gray Manor.

Judge 1
2 1 1 Total 4 Victorian Era style did not use stretch sheer fabrics and it loses all continuity to create a stiff collar using sheer fabric. I do feel the design is nice, with a glimmer of an idea, however execution could be much better and less thrown together
Judge 2
4 4 5 Total 13 Love this piece. It exudes the time period you were aiming for. Don't see much that could have been improved upon in the construction. The fit is fabulous, The hemline really works. Even the boots work for me.
Judge 3
3 3 3 Total 9 I like the back detail although I think the slit should be more modest for this era. The oversize mutton top sleeves are almost too exaggerated. The red at the neck gives just the right touch of color.
Total points: 26


Entry #14 - Sylvia


Sylvia's collection:
I used silk, wool, rayon and peacock feathers to create my outfit. My inspriation was the 1930s with a touch of the Edwardian. And, of course, Robin Hood from Medieval times.

Judge 1
2 5 4 Total 11 While I find this absolutely charming, I don't get the mix of Edwardian and 30's style. this is an exact replica of depression era 40's style and it's fabulous! I love the color blends and the brocade! Technique wise it is pristine!
Judge 2
3 4 3 Total 10 I do like this piece. Love the color combination and the various textures. The era to me is a kind of WWII clashes with Robin Hood.The hat is great. Love the workmanship on that. the dress or blouse and skirt on the top part is perfect. The collar lays very nicely the gathers on the sleeves are nice and even. the cuffs on the sleeves look good. The front looks nicely pressed. The back doen't look as good as the front, as far as pressing goes.
Judge 3
2 2 2 Total 6 The hat is all I see when I first look at the picture, taking away from the dress. The blue at the bust is distracting from the skirt and blouse colors, drawing my eye and dividing the dress. The skirt fits well, and I like the blouse fabric. The blouse could look better if it was tucked in smoother under the skirt.
Total points: 27


Entry #15 - Sharon


Sharon's collection:
70's was my era and everything is made from an article of vintage clothing.


Judge 1
2 3 2 Total 7 The jeans are cute, but I feel it lost it's era with the top.
Judge 2
4 4 3 Total 11 very 70's. Love the look. We had it go on back then didn't we? So many colors and textures.You did a pretty good job putting this all together
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 The fit of the garments is good, the colors coordinate well. The big pink bow is distracting.
Total points: 26


Entry #16 - Durelle


Durelle's collection:
"Steampunk"…………. This subculture fashion trend is the perfect springboard for my styling and design. I adore fantasy and historical designs and I have chosen this as my Project Dollway theme for 2008. The Steampunk genre has moved into high fashion and is finding its way into mainstream teen fashion today. My collection will embody elements of Neo-Edwardian historical styling, with various alterations for the mad science/ time traveler that tends to characterize steampunk. The color scheme that will move though out the collection is old gold, rusty reds and bitter green. Leather will be an important element as well as topstitching and buttons. Buckles straps, gears, goggles, keys and chains will also accent the collection. This first installment has an aviator (airship) feeling.. You can look forward to my early designs building on this aspect which I hope to include bomber jackets and parachute back packs… and what ever I may come up with ….. These are just my early notes. Enjoy ……..


Judge 1
1 1 3 Total 5 I don't get it. I did not invision this outfit in my head before I looked at photos. Steampunk is a harsh fashion and this is almost meek in comparison. The stiching is superb and I like the palatte.
Judge 2
4 4 4 Total 12 I must admit to not knowing much about steampunk. Most of what I have seen I did not like. Yours I find very interesting. I love the colors you choise. Love the use of leather.Great construction from what I see
Judge 3
2 4 4 Total 10 The colors coordinate well, and the overall fit is good. The leather accent pieces are very well done.
Total points: 27



Entry #17 - Dot


Dot's collection:
My line is called Confections. Confections, in my mind, are ensembles that are as sweet as any bakery dish - definitely ensembles that a girly girl would love to have in her closet! My colors are basically cream, pink, and lavender. The cream is the icing on this particular Confections offering called Ballet, and the colors are the sprinkles on top! The tiny ballerina on her purse and the ballet slipper pin on her lapel make it clear where this little Missy is going. This ensemble is done in cream colored dupioni silk. The top is appliqued with vintage lace and the bubble skirt features a vintage lace overlay. Lace (some vintage, some not), ribbons, and charms will be elements prevalent throughout my Confections line.


Judge 1
3 4 3 Total 10 I can see a little girl in this dress..in fact, I'd wear this dress. I love the colors, I love the lace, I love it all. I could do with out the head thing.
Judge 2
2 3 3 Total 8 I am not sure what era "Confections" is a part of. I am sure this is a spendid creation in person. I know working with this type of lace is not easy. However, these photos are what I have to work with. I don't see the "sprinkels" of color. The Ballerina charms are cute.
Judge 3
1 2 3 Total 6 I like the dress style. The lace has a beautiful pattern that the bows are hiding. The bows make the dress seems cluttered, especially at the waistline.
Total points: 24

Entry #18 - Carolyn


Carolyn's collection:
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Judge 1
1 1 1 Total 3 The rosettes look like shoulder pads coming from cleavage. with an uneven hem. Although, the premise of the hem line does have merit.
Judge 2
2 1 1 Total 4 There is an idea here. I kind of like the direction it was headed.I honestly don't know what to say here. Are the seams suppose to not match? Did you mean to have so many unfinished edges. I am sorry, but I just don't get it.
Judge 3
1 1 2 Total 4 I like the asymmetrical hemline. The flowers are too large for the dress but make an interesting bag. The beads of the bag handle are too big.
Total points: 11


Entry #19 - Dawn


Dawn's collection:
When I spotted an olive green jacket over a plum colored dress in one of the fall collections, I knew I had my color scheme. This isn't a new combination for me. Several years ago I made a crazyquilt square in these colors with the addition of metallic gold. That inspired a round robin crazyquilt vest that turned out just stunning with everyone's additions. When I entered an altered book colors round robin, I again chose this favorite combination. It was great seeing what everyone did with my choice of colors. I think these colors are perfect for the Essential Redhead Ellowyne that I chose for my model. I was a bit anxious about whether the colors would work with Gabby's first word/theme. I was delighted to see her choice of vintage. I've always loved the long, lean look of twenties fashions. This was my vintage inspiration. If I sewed more for myself, I would make something inspired by that era for me too. I wish my photos showed the colors and texture of the fabrics better. The olive is silk and the plum of the jacket is a lot richer than it looks in the photos. I like the tone on tone dots of the jacket and they fit right in with this year's emphasis on dots, but in a subdued manner. I was really happy to find that I had enough of the fabric to make the jacket. My fabrics are all recycled clothing that I originally purchased to make crazyquilt squares with. I thought about making a beaded headband or a cloche to go with the outfit, but between being low on time to work and wondering if that would make it look too costumey, I decided not to. I still may add one later, along with a choker for Ellowyne to wear to a New Year's Eve party. I think she could carry it off.


Judge 1
2 3 3 Total 8 Love the scheme, enjoy the look, just not sure if its 20s style...really looking forward to other looks!
Judge 2
3 4 3 Total 10 Nice use of colors a line. I do like the combination of textures. It does evoke the time period an yet still works for today.You did an excellent job of keeping the wieghts of the fabircs and the designs in the fabrics in scale. I do like that. I thik the gold part of the dress/ skirt and bouse could have been better pressed.
Judge 3
2 2 2 Total 6 I like the jacket and its colors, and I like it with the olive of the dress. The ensemble with the jacket does not look as well from the front when the colorful panel peeks out. The bodice of the dress is a loose fitting style but it is drooping too much.
Total points: 24


Entry #20 - Michele


Michele's collection:
Okay here is my first entry in our little swarray. My era is 1910-1920 When one thinks of this era they automatically think of the flapper dress that was very popular in those times. I took this idea and brought it up to modern day club dancing but with sophistication. I used black and pink silk with beaded string trim. My girl is Gene Marshal by Mel Odum. She is one of my favorite gals to work with since she does have that timeless movie star beauty. Gene enjoyed working with me as she is the one that picked the fabrics and my husband picked the era since I was having such a hard time as i love several. Gene's "20's Boogaloo" was created and hand sewn with in 6 hours. Enjoy!!

Judge 1
1 1 1 Total 3 I would have liked to see a cleaner job on this garment. It is apparent that it is the 20's.
Judge 2
1 1 2 Total 4 Interesting redition of a 1920's flapper dress.Unique neckline and color choices.The seams are straight. I would have taken more care in keeping the hemline straight. The fringe could have been a little fullerin the top four rows of beads. You've got some puckering going on too. Cute idea and a nice use of beaded fringe.
Judge 3
2 1 2 Total 5 I like the dual colored dress, the pink and black work well together. The beaded fringe is a little sung in a couple places which is not allowing the dress to hang nicely. The back not overlapping evenly and is more apparent with the darker color.
Total points: 12


Entry #21 - Kat


Kat's collection:
I chose the 1930's for my Vintage Period. I love the graceful look of the fashions and while they are elegant, they are for the most part simple is design, like the Japanese say, "Less is More". The first piece in my collection is a simple beach pajama over a surprising and unique bathing suit. My first outfit. This is the outfit complete. The shear Beach "Pajama's" in Classic blue and white stripe that echoes the blue of the ocean and the white caps that lap upon the shore.
There is a small stand up collar, to frame a beautiful face, oversized pockets and a flared pajama leg. Profile view of outfit I cut the fabric in a couple of different way To add interest, I cut the top on the straight grain and the pockets on the bias. The pants were cut on the bias too, sending the stripes an angular position and the bias also added a nice flare to the pants - a beautiful drape. The back of the outfit. Because of the stripes and the shear quality of the fabric, the photos seem to make the stripes blend together and the costume looks boxey which it is not as one could see from the profile shot. Aha! A peak at last. Once the shirt is removed one get's a "tease" at what lies beneath. A Royal Blue Swimsuit in most romantic and stunning style
And removing the trousers, we see this cleaver swimsuit styled in a knit that has a most subtle touch of 'glimmer' to it. I think one can see that in the photo. Wish I could have shown the lining but only so many pix allowed. The lining is a dark blue patterned fabric
with an all over design that looks like breaking waves.This is a pix of the 'finishing' of the outfit.
See the hand rolled hem on the pants and turned and folded hem on the shirt. As you look at the shirt, the top view is of the right side of the shirt on the outside with pocket detail. Just below, is inside left of the shirt showing the hemming and lace finishing of the self- facing
on the jacket. One more thing, this AOL program is not allowing me enough space to comment but please have another look at the swimsuit. The garment is being suspended (for Modesty's) sake buy a silver chain necklace with toggle clasp. The toggle is undone and the chain brought behind the neck and then forward when removing and the opposite is done when dressing.
There are 4 Faux Pearl 'buttons' down the front of the decorative strip which connects the bra to the bikini pant

Judge 1
4 4 4 Total 12 This is the most understated explanation of the 30s. it is not over worked, but shows a definite vintage flare. I think the swimsuit, pajama blend is perfect and reminds me of stories from the seaside tales of the flappers gone good. I really like it and think it's well made
Judge 2
2 3 3 Total 8 The PJ's were cute and the swim suit was different.It was different. No body else did anything like this. I did like it and it all wen together. I think it was maybe 30 and late 60s thrown together. I loved the use of the striped fabric it was a delight to see. Looks like the construction was good and you did iron it.
Judge 3
1 3 2 Total 6 The bias stripes lend a uniqueness to the pants, setting them apart from the top. That also lets the pockets stand out. The suit is very daring for this era.
Total points: 26

Entry #22 - Jannie


Jannie's collection:
INSPIRATION and DESCRIPTION: My inspiration comes from a pantsuit that I designed for myself in 1971 for work. Earth tone colours were popular in the early 70’s inspiring me to select brown and off white. The outfit consists of the following: Panties, Wide Leg Slacks, Blouse, Vest, Earrings, Necklace, Shoes, & Pink Flower for hair or Butterfly The regular cut panties are not shown and are made of cotton spandex with elastic at the waist and legs. The Wide Leg Slacks have darts front and back and are fitted on a waistband. Closure is in the back which was popular in the early 70’s. The slacks are fitted to the hipline from which the line of the slacks drops squares to the hem. The fabric chosen is a linen like fabric which was also popular in the early 70’s. The slacks are pressed into front and back pleats.The Blouse is constructed out of 100% cotton and lined with an off white 100% polyester. The bodice is fitted with vertical darts both in the front and back. The blouse has a collar stand and an unusually shaped collar. The sleeves are fitted at the shoulders and gathered at the French cuffs. The blouse has a front closure. The Vest is made of the same material as the Slacks. It is lined with 100% polyester satin. The Vest is constructed of 3 parts; the front, the side, and the back. The front has 2 small darts on a slight princess lines with V-neck. The Back has a back zipper closure and each side is a slight princess line. The Side joins the Front and Back "princess lines" together. The Front and Side front seam also have openings for pockets on both side of the Vest. The pockets are fully functional. The Jewelry was made from gold, off white, and various colours of brown beads that I had left over from another project. The shoes are dark tan leather sandals. I found the little pink flower and butterfly in my "junk" box.


Judge 1
5 2 3 Total 10 Great interp, love the beads with pants. while I think this sums up the 70's, its not the most original, i would have like an abstract paisley shirt
Judge 2
4 4 4 Total 12 I like the period interpretation. Pru looks like she just step right out of the 70s. Very nice choice in colors for the time period as well.
Judge 3
4 3 4 Total 11 Colors coordinate nicely, fit is good. I like the hidden pockets in the tunic style vest.
Total points: 33

Entry #23 - Dee Dee


DeeDee's collection:
My inspiration is the period of time between the mid 1950-to the early 1960s. The Wiggle
Dress was the essence of femininity at a time period when men were men and women
were allowed to be women. There was no shame in being a housewife, person who adored
her family, loved her home and enjoyed working with her hands and doing things with
friends. I have included a picture of the inspiration. the overskirt was turned into the scarf.
the photo (not shown here) is courtesy of SoVintagePatterns.com. My fabric is crepe back satin in aqua and the scarf is a chiffon print. I have turned the wiggle dress into a modern two piece outfit, that can be worn day or night. Hair by DeeDee Studios Shoes by DeeDee Couture Shoes were a flop, so Isabella had to take them off at the photo shoot. Please take points from me not her. :-)


Judge 1
1 1 1 Total 3 The color is vivid, but the construction needs work.
Judge 2
2 2 2 Total 6 the inspriration picture was cool. However I don't see much of the inspriation in your creation. The concept was unique. This satin fabric is difficult to sew with and the chiffon can even be trickier. I can't tell wether you pressed this or not and both fabrics may not have taken to the iron very well anyway. I think we need to have some pointers on marking fabric so there is no residue or marks left behind. The ruffles on the hemmline ruffle could be a little more even and the hems in the scarf could be better. I do like the bead treatment you attached the scarf to the blouse though.
Judge 3
2 2 1 Total 5 The colors coordinate very well, and I like scarf crossing the front and draping down the back. Improvement is needed in the fit of the bodice and at the waist/hips of the skirt. A longer bodice to meet or overlap the skirt would look nicer.
Total points: 14

Entry #24 - Alison


Alison's collection:
The fabric is an antique fine linen appliqué tablecloth that I have had and used for many years; it was given to me, along with some other pieces, by an Irish woman whose children I babysat in high school. Her father had been in the foreign service and lived in China, and the tablecloth came from there. The style is 1920s-1930s and is still used today on household linens -- which are not often linen. Evelyn has been waiting a long time for this. It is a short kimono jacket and hakama -- both Japanese clothing articles, which she is fond of wearing, along with her running shoes and her huaraches. We love anime, and this outfit is -- i.e. the pieces are -- typical sport clothes worn in numerous anime features as well as in Japanese historical dramas. Oddly enough, when the outfit was assembled, it came out looking like a Chinese garment. The stiffness of the linen perhaps is what caused this. It still needs work, a lot of it. I sew all my doll clothes with French seams, or seams otherwise hidden from exposure, and this was assembled hurriedly; I will go back and finish it to my usual specs. At the very least, this is the opening foundation piece, elements of which will be used to build others upon.


Judge 1
5 5 3 Total 13 This is an epitome outfit for me, very 20s...exceptionally done, really like the feel of this garment. took a doll and created a character...well done!
Judge 2
2 3 2 Total 7 Kimonos are timeless, they look the same century after century. Too bad you didn't finish it. I would have like to have seen the shoes. some of the bracelets are nice. I liked the colors of the green and white bracelet but I think the beads were a bit big for your client.
Judge 3
2 2 2 Total 6 Very colorful and the floral print is placed well on the design.
Total points: 26


Entry #25 - Michaela


Michaela's collection:
So my interpretation of vintage went back a little further than most wouldexpect - say around the late 1700's! My gown is inspired by the elegant and simple lines of the Regency evening gowns from around the 1790's which were high up under the bustline with anelegant falling skirt. I thought I would take elements of that samegraceful line and drag it kicking and screaming into the 21st century. I have kept the high gathered bustline but have made the long flowing overskirt detachable so Aura, my model, can go from an elegant ball to a swank cocktail affair. The gown is made from gothic red/black shot dupion silk with black bridal tulle overlay and lace top thigh high stockings with hand embroidered backseams.

Judge 1
1 1 2 Total 4 So disappointed. A huge lead up with the possibility to take best score...It turned out to be a prom dress.
Judge 2
3 3 3 Total 9 This is a nice gown with simple but elegant lines. I don't really see it reflecting much of the Regency time period though. Over all construction is pretty good. the netting overlay on the bodice could have been a littel more even.
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 I like the color, more burgundy than red. Fit is good and I like the tulle on the bodice. The tulle overskirt doesn't compliment the gown.
Total points: 20




Entry #26 - Peggy


Peggy's collection:
My design is from the 60's. It is based on a dress that I actually had for a party when I was in school. My mother and I made that one. It was mint green and made of crepe which was used a lot then, so I updated this one using a different color and making it of silk dupioni. It's rather plain and simple but that's the way a lot of the fashions were back then. It is fully lined which is what the white is that you see around the arm holes.


Judge 1
4 2 4 Total 10 Probably the most well sewn in the first round. color and style are very 60's! Only wish you'd made it your own!
Judge 2
3 4 3 Total 10 Over all, pretty nice. Love the color. It does reflect the 60's era.Nice, but not all that unique.You did a nice job in the cnstruction of this piece.
Judge 3
3 2 3 Total 8 The bows on the shoulders and mid-back, as well as the bias band under the bust give interest to a simple design. The fit is good.



Total points: 28


Entry #27 - Jason


Jason's collection:
This gown is seafoam green silk crepe with hand beaded turquoise accents and velvet waist detail. I based it on a 1930s bias-cut gown , but gave it a modern edge with the built-in corset.


Judge 1
1 2 1 Total 4 Good palate, nice beading, seam along bottom is sloppy...work needs to be cleaner .... good job!
Judge 2
3 4 4 Total 11 I like the colors and the lines of this gown. The influence of the time period is reflected.The bead work alone makes this a unique piece.The halter top and beadwork on it are very nice. The fit is good. The hem line could have been a little nicer. The seams lay nicely and it does look pressed.
Judge 3
2 2 3 Total 7 The dress and bead colors compliment each other nicely. Fit is good except the closure at the back waistline. The blue ribbon divides the dress and draws the eyes away from the beading.
Total points: 22

"I don't design clothes. I design dreams." - Ralph Lauren



The announcement of the winner and our critiques are understandably filling up most of our blog this week -- after all that is what we have been eagerly waiting for! But I'd like to leave you with this:

Did you know:

-- The word vintage itself was originally used in the wine-making industry. A vintage wine is one made from grapes that were all, or primarily, grown and harvested in a single specified year, and these specific years generally denote the quality of some wines. In the fashion world, vintage has a very different meaning, but is also distinctly identified by the years in which it was made. Vintage is thought to be "borrowed" from the wine world as a more glamorous way to describe these old, but wonderful clothes.


-- Most people confuse vintage with antique, but the main distinction is that antique clothing is older than vintage. While opinions may vary on this definition, the most recognized description today is that antique clothing was made before the 1920s, while vintage clothing spans the years of 1920 to 1980. Then there is the retro or mod style that falls in between vintage. Generally thought to be made from 1965 to 1985, the mod/retro style is often regarded as vintage, also.


-- Vintage clothing is distinct because it is generally well made, features timeless design, and is made of unusual and often fabulous material one cannot afford in today's market. Most are also distinquished by hand finishing, unusual buttons, handmade lace, beading, applique, and various other means. Most of all they seem to all be created with a unique imagination.

---Movie stars and other celebrities have made vintage clothing more popular in recent years. These people want to set the trends instead of just going along with them. They appreciate that these items are well made and that their generous seam allowance allow for necessary alterations to achieve their desired custom fit.


---Fashion designers around the world are developing an appreciation for vintage-style clothing due to its newly found popularity. On any given runway clothing made to emulate this style has been present recently. However, the true bargain hunter still prefers to find their vintage designs in second hand stores; the cost of buying reproduced vintage is often very expensive.

So, we had a wide span of styles, fabrics and accessories to choose for our design. Did we hit the mark in our mind or the judges? Only you, the reader, must decide after your review of all of the critiques and designs presented in this challenge.

"The importance of growth...
I spoke about hamburger to prime rib. (in a private email that went public), not as an insult, but as an analogy to levels... I don't want anyone to bow out of this competition, because they have a low score or a because a judge states the youth of the design... There are eleven more challenges to do and improvement is extremely important... There will be an award for the most improved... Stay, learn and better yourself.... Now, that's another challenge...I know, I know... Gabby, can it!" -- Gabby

Our link of the week is fashion fun suggested by one of our members, Beth! It features the Salon Du Chocolate - yum yum. If you live in New York or any of the countries its available, maybe you could even check it out in person! Oh, and be sure to watch the video to the end or you'll miss some interesting fashions:


Now onward and upward with the next challenge - is everyone pleating??

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