DOLL TALK for Couture Doll Design Challenge: CHALLENGE TWO WINNER

...and the winner is Sylvia!!

Project Dollway at Home is pleased to present the winner of the second challenge. We are including all the pictures submitted by Sylvia, and the decisions by the judges that gave this designer the win. This designer will soon be interviewed, and you can read this interview on our blog.

When Gabby gave her the news, she had this to say: "I shrieked, literally when I read your e-mail and my husband came running saying, 'what? what?'! I entered this competion not expecting to win anything at all, HONEST!!!

Winning feels AMAZING! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! AND THE OTHER JUDGES sooooooooooo much! I still can't believe it!"

Winning Points:

(Numbers from left to right represent Theme, Originality, Execution, and Total).

Sylvia's collection: My influence was this piece of silk i had that i thought would look cool pleated and it went from there.
Judge 1
5, 5, 5 Another killer! This is SO adorable! Youve left my mouth agape with the bubble pleated skirt...I think the teal is what's making your outfits b/c it's just the right embellishment. I have nothing to critique on this one!
Judge 2
4; 5; 4 I liked this one too, nice use of pleats, unique in that the pleats nicely flow into a bubble skirt effect, I like that.
Judge 3
4, 4, 4 The tiny pleats at the torso are almost corset-like, then flow into a bubble skirt. The colors all combine very well.
Total points:40

Also, here is the Point System the judges used for this competition:
Points go from 5 - 1, with five being the best , in these three categories:

1) Designer's interpretation of the theme, Vintage. How successful were they?

2) Originality (the style)... Is it different or does it look like something you have seen before in fashion... accessories... color.

3) Execution: How well is the garment made? Does it look finished? Are there clean edges? Ironed? The full presentation.

The most a designer can acquire from the judges is 15 points, but some people also received the extra 1/2 point awarded to those who sent their garments in before the end of the tenth day of the challenge.

Here is how the judges critiqued the rest of us, and our points. Also, the artist's original notes are included - can you see their vision? (Numbers from left to right represent Theme, Originality, Execution, and Total).

Entry #1 - Joan
Joan's collection: "Vasilisa wears a black faux suede cape, lined with dark red silk. Bound buttonholes allow the pleather belt to meet in the front. The cape features a "Nehru" type collar and a red/black striped pleated jabot. The back of the cape features a deep reverse pleat. The horizontal striped silk skirt features very subtle horizontal tucks near the hemline accented by a black silk band. The purse is black pleather with red snakeskin trim. The "bracelet" style ring allows Vasilisa to carry it with no problem."
Judge 1
3, 3, 3 Very pretty. Color scheme is lovely and work looks neat, pleats are even and precise.
Judge 2
4;5; 4 Love the jacket, very nice use of pleats in both the construction as well as accent detail. Nice workmanship.
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 The pleated cape makes an interesting contrast to the slender skirt. The fabrics and colors coordinate well.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 32.5

Entry #2 - Kevin
Kevin's collection: A TWO piece outfit done in BRIGHT Purple and steelgray dupioni silk, the skirt is a floor length skirt done in the steel gray dupioni with three distinct pleats down the left side and features at the waist to mid thigh 4 Sterling Silver faux beads/buttons. The Top is a loose fitting top with a (????)neckline that has been pleated all the way around, it has two sterling silver beaded faux buttons on the front of the neckline, The Sleeves end in black faux fur and are 3/4 length. The ensemble also has a matching Black Patent leather real WORKING purse that has a sterling silver beaded faux clasp on the flap. This is a perfect 50's/60's outfit for a night on the town or an intimate dinner!
Judge 1
3, 2, 2 While the idea is great, i fill the overall fit could have been better. The ensemble is just too big for the doll base and overwhelms it. I enjoy the colors and I really think this has promise if it were to be taken in considerably
Judge 2
3; 4; 3 Very interesting neckline, Could have been better fitted, it looks to big. workmanship is nice.
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 The collar gives definition to the boxy style of the jacket. The long pleats make the skirt more elegant.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 27.5

Entry #3 - Cat
Cat's collection: The inspiration for this outfit came from the theme of the Texas Renaissance Festival this weekend, Highland Fling weekend The theme in this contest this week of PLEATS inspired me to create a timeless, fun and sassy outfit. The fabrics used are cottons and cotton blends in various shades of lavenders and purple with a white blouse laced through silver rings and trimmed with small seed beads in purple. I trimmed out the piper inspired short jacket in silver Celtic looking braid. The skirt is stitched down box pleats. I used box pleats on the cuffs of the shirt and on the tam. The tall laced boots are handmade from Sculpy and black leather. All the jewelry is silver with seed beads and Austrian crystals. Her purse is inspired by the men's kilt sporran which sports 3 hand tied tassels and a crystal button. The front is overlaid with slubby silk and the purse is black leather.
Judge 1
2, 2, 3 I feel that this outfit is very well thought out, however I do think the preparation could have been done better. The fabrics didn't mesh with the overall style and though the pleats were very nice, I don't think it looked finished.
Judge 2
3; 2; 3 Pleats in the skirt and at the cuffs, nice. The purse sure is tiny. entry could have been pressed better.
Judge 3
3,4 5 The colors coordinate well, and the silver trim of the jacket brings out the silver on blouse. Pleated cuffs are a nice touch. The ensemble will look good with or without the jacket.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 27 .5

Entry #4 - Aly
Aly's collection: For the second outfit in my Luxe collection for Lana Lang, Lana was looking for something special for Metropolis' Chinese New Year Gala. Taking inspiration from Chinese lanterns and Asian fabrics, I made a bronze silk evening skirt featuring chevroned pin-tuck pleats and a dramatic fishtail pleated and pin-tucked mermaid hem. The bodice is made from taupe Asian chinoiserie brocade and a silk organza tuxedo-style halter with tiny gold hand beaded button details and gold top-stitching. For the footwear, I recycled an older pair of shoes and reworked them by adding the coordinating pleat details and gold insole. I also made a bracelet with a small gold leaf charm and matching earrings. The purse is, of course, based on a Chinese lantern and features a panel of undulating organza pleats and a leaf charm. To finish the look, Lana wears a cocktail hat in coordinating fabrics, a feather, and a tiny gold pleated fan as a playful accent and nod to a traditional staple of Asian culture. And since its chilly most winters in the City of Tomorrow, Lana has a chocolate brown silk velvet shrug to beat off the cold. Or perhaps Lana is hoping a certain Man of Steel will leave Lois Lane and, instead, whisk her off to the Arctic Circle to rekindle the old flame at the Fortress of Solitude. A girl's gotta be prepared...
Judge 1
4, 4, 3 This is such a great improvement from last theme. I really enjoy how you've created a choesive look and using the pleasts to do so really encompassed the theme. My only shred of complaint is that the bodice hem doesn't line up to the skirt. Great job
Judge 2
3; 3; 4 Very nice workmanship, Love the fabric, the entry got a little busy towards the bottom, I like the pleats, too much other stuff going on there detracts from the over all look.
Judge 3
4, 4, 5 Beautiful fabrics in well coordinated colors. The different textures and pleating styles make a very creative flounce; the tuxedo effect at the neckline is unique.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 34.5

Entry #5 - Sue
Sue's collection: I felt I had touched on PLEATS in the first challenge when I made the pleated dress. I decided to use the fabric the dress was made from but not repeat the dress theme. I decided to go with a palazzo pants option. I was planning to do a top in the same fabric with the pleats horizontal but the result looked too baggy. I felt the wide pants needed a slim top. I was inspired by the dress worn by Halle Berry [designed by Eli Saab] when she won her Oscar for Best Actress. The Outfit:Pleated Palazzo pants, Sheer Lace Top, Pleated Bag with jewel clasp, Pleated Hair band with jewel embellishment, Ostrich feather Muffler, Jeweled Cuff. The pants were the starting point for the outfit. I felt, though made from the same fabric as Challenge 1’s pleated dress, they had a relaxed evening feel. I decided to do a very daring top in antique lace. Again [as in Coat Challenge 1] placement of design within the fabric is vital. The lace is an old rose pink color with gold. It should add glamour and wow factor to the outfit, whilst retaining a delicate feel. The lace top is from a piece of lace I bought in London about 6 months ago. It is soft pink with gold and was so beautiful I couldn't resist. Well I bought 10cms – French lace, London = $$$$$$ I made a very simple shell top. I wanted it to be sheer so knew the placement of the gold was vital for some modesty – not that we always see modesty on the catwalk! The fabric was so delicate it had to be hand sewn. But again the beauty of the fabric meant that edges could be unfinished. So only 4 seams on this piece. I considered making a silk camisole to wear underneath but thought it would detract from the beauty of the lace design.The pants were very hard to sew – the pleats were in the fabric and any stitching showed. Plus using it for doll rather than human size meant that any natural kink in the fabric was magnified and looked unsightly. My outdoor shots of the back view of the pants showed how unsightly the fastening looked on photo so I added a loop to cover the back seam. Accessories: Bag[Purse] -To get a structured clutch, I used a felt base covered in the pleated fabric. A jeweled clasp was sewn on the top to add interest. Hat - The hat was inspired both by the 20's and by a band my daughter made for herself last year whilst undergoing chemotherapy. It was wonderful and more wearable than a hat. In order to give stretch to the hat I knitted a band in cashmerino wool [as she had] This gave elasticity to the hat so it fit beautifully. A woollen band would not be glamorous enough for this outfit so I sewed the pleated fabric over it. I covered the joint with fabric so all seams were hidden. I then sewed 2 old earrings as embellishment to the top. Muffler - To spice the outfit up even more and link with the Vintage outfit, I added a fur muffler inspired by 2008/9 catwalk trends. It is a length of ostrich feather fastened with a hook. Cuff - A single matching gem [old earring] was threaded with gold crochet wool and tied around the wrist. Shoes - The same shoes were used as they match the material of the pants exactly. This doll stands alone without a stand so long as the surface is flat.
Judge 1
2, 2, 4 This is straight out of Dior's 2003 line and is very well done. The pleated pants are very intricate and I like how well the colors flow. Even though it's a doll, the sheer top is just not enough for me. I think a camisole underneath would have finished it up. You're almost there!
Judge 2
3; 3; 3 Nice, loved the hat! Would have gone great with the first entry. Would have liked to have seen the pants fit a little better. Still not seeing any finished edges.
Judge 3
3, 3, 3 The palazzo pants hang nicely, the back loop is an interesting closure that mimics the loop on the turban. The fullness of the fur collar takes away from the delicate lace.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 26.5

Entry 6 - Larraine
Larraine's collection: Bringing the cocktail dress of the sixties into the 21st century by styling it in two pieces, but keeping with the bold colors of the sixties. I chose two styles of pleats and used the contrasting colors inside the pleats to give it an even more sixties look. The top is corset-like with Honeycomb Pleats and the box pleats of the skirt match the top. The skirt is also shorter, a la sixties, but not a mini.
Judge 1
5, 4, 5 incredible. this is SO well donme I can't even stand it. I LOVE what you have done and i'm blown away at how tiny these details are and they just make this SO cute...The peace sign on the purse ties together with your line and is really shaping this up to be an amazing collection! Bravo!
Judge 2
3; 4; 4 Nice entry. Very unique use of pleats in the top, Nicely pressed
Judge 3
4, 4, 4 The combination of colors combined with the honeycomb pleating creates a uniquely styled top. The reverse coloring between the skirt and top makes each stand out.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 37.5

Entry #7 - Dal
Dal's collection: Three tiers of silvered black and white ribbon pleats set off a MOD inspired silver and black geometric fabric separated by rich, black 1/8" velvet trim that ties in back. The pleats face one way on the top level then reverse to the opposite direction, and reverse again. The geometric fabric repeats below in a pleated V-splash on her oversized bell bottomed white vinyl pants. The fabric on the bells has a delicate white on white pattern that is subtle but fabulously 60's.I topped off the ensemble with a perky orange and yellow beret.As the collection unfolds, MOD prints will either be offset with black and white splashes of color (the tie in the first challenge) or as in this case, the reverse; black and silver with an orange splash of color. There will also always be a play on pattern and texture, something I love exploring.This diminutive 2 and a half inch pleated top and 4 and a half inch pants continues my MOD theme and hopefully delivers MOD in a fun and whimsical way. All of Licca's designs promise to be sophisticated enough to translate to the larger sized dolls.
Judge 1
5, 5, 5 I can't find something wrong with this outfit. From the fabric, the execution and style...they are all in point. You took what was wrong with last weeks and changed everything. I think that you have totally embraced this week's theme in a way that is wearable and not too far fetched! I love it!
Judge 2
3; 3; 4 Cute, I like the combination of stripes, checks and plaids. The pants could have been pressed a little sharper. This entry is a little more diffficult than the first entry, workmanship is more envolved, good job.
Judge 3
4, 4, 4 The reversing direction of the dainty pleated ruffles enhances the top. The pleats peeking out from the 'bells' nicely coordinate the outfit.
Extra 1/2 point
Total points: 37.5

Entry #8 - Pauline
Pauline's collection: Here is my entry "The Discreet Pleat". My client asked for a day dress to wear but doesn't like "casual" too much with her elegant lifestyle! The pleats of the skirt contour the body still keeping with the silhouette of the 1950's. The bodice pleats softly accentuate the bust-line and sleeve. To complete the fashion is a flirty little cape lined with tulle and a pleated tulle collar with a tiny pleat at the back of the neck. The skull cap hat mirrors the tulle pleating with another nod to the 1950's. Earrings are hand painted with metal bead accent. Shoes are appliqued with same fabric as dress. The matching fabric purse has a front and back pleat with metal flower accent (recycled bracelet link).
Judge 1
1, 1, 3 I think the pleats are done well and I understand that you didn't want to go overboard b/c you were using such a bold pattern, however I think the pattern is too much and takes away from the stitching. I do like the hat just not a fan of the design.
Judge 2
3; 4; 4 Interesting entry. I like the use of the pleats. They are not glaring, but yes very discreet is a nice description. Great hat, Very nice workmanship. Not sure about the cape, it's a little too different I think.
Judge 3
3, 4, 4 Good use of the large print on this fabric. The placement of the pleats are nicely camouflaged. The cape has a unique shape.
Total points: 27

Entry #9 -Gene
Gene's collection: My inspiration for the Pleats Challenge was the business suits that I see women wear everyday. The skirt is constructed from a brown cotton tweed and the blouse is an off white chiffon. It had been raining for the 3rd day here and I thought that Barbie would need a raincoat to go out to work. The raincoat is made of a waterproof nylon material.
Judge 1
1, 1, 1 The challenge was pleats and though I see an obvious pleat I don't think it is quite as neat as it should be. The colors come off very drab and I just don't think this is where you need to be going with your collection. The raincoat could have been done in red and that really would have given it some pop.
Judge 2
2; 2; 2 The pleats in the skirt portion are even and pressed. Could have used better fitting.
Judge 3
3, 3, 3 The swing style raincoat works well with the classic design of the skirt and blouse. A front picture of the ensemble without the coat would show off those pleats.
Total points: 18

Entry #10 - Stacy
Stacy's collection: 1950's era evening gown is made of burgundy silk dupoini and is lined in the bodice with cotton. It features a fitted strapless bodice with rushing over the bust area which is accented with 3 hues of burgundy Swarovski crystals, full skirt which is box pleated to match the bodice seams, and a large self fabric bow in back. It closes in the back with snaps. A net petticoat gives support to the dress and closes on the side with a snap. The shawl is made of shiny sheer fabric in a silver/gray hue and is decorated with Swarovski crystal beads and 15/0 seed beads. Earrings and hair comb are of silver tone metal and also feature crystal decorations. Her roll purse and strappy slide shoes match, being done in a silver and gray brocade. The gloves are made from black spandex and have individual fingers.
Judge 1
2, 3 5 This is a major win for you. The fabric works, the pleats work and the overall design is very pretty. You have taken this challenge in a great direction and I think your piece is beautiful. The only thing I would do without is the shall, you don't need to cover your dress, it's good enough alone.
Judge 2
4; 5; 5 I love the use of pleats in the skirts but also in the bodice. The bodice is spectacular. This is a very nice piece and another I would love to see in person. Great job!
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 The bodice is nicely done and fits well. The box pleats give an elegant fullness to the skirt without the need for gathers. The light color of the wrap takes away from the rich color of the gown and I would suggest using a warmer tone for the wrap.
Total points: 34

Entry 11 - Agarva
Agarva's collection: This outfit is an extension from Challenge 1. It is a three piece suit consisting of skirt, corset and bolero style jacket/shirt. All pieces are made from dupion silk and fully lined. Piping trim surrounds the corset and the neck edge of the bolero style jacket. The skirt has 2 inverted box pleats in the front and a triple inverted pleat in the back with contrasting color. The corset is softly knife pleated around the torso and is fitted at the back and tied with corset style eyelets and 'leather' ribbon. The silk bolero has a red silk contrast lining. It is styled to be worn in many ways - lapel up, both folded out or one fold of the lapel for an asymmetrical look. It is blouson at the back for a more defined shape and can be worn with the previous collection's high waisted skirt. The self facing cuffs are adjustable also and can be worn a number of ways - the red pleated side up with a deep or shallow cuff, or at wrist length without the cuff. Shadi wears a diamond choker and has her hair styled for this challenge.
Judge 1
2, 4, 3 Much better choice of fabrics, these work well together. I think the bolero is too bunchy and maybe should have come OVER the corset instead of underneath. I understand the theme you are going for with your line, but skintight pants would have taken this to another level. I think the pleated corset is your signature part on this.
Judge 2
4; 4; 4 I like this entry. nice pressed pleats in the skirt. I like the use of pleats as accents too. Workmanship is very good.
Judge 3
4, 4, 4 The corset is well done and brings the contrasting colors of the bolero and skirt together. The long pleats in the front and back of the skirt give a bit of fullness to the overall slender appearance. The pleated cuffs are a nice touch.
Total points: 33

Entry 12 - Sande
Sande's collection: What better way to bring the flavor of the 60's and 70's to the present than with a nod to that wonderful couturier, Yves Saint Laurent and his see-through blouse? A couple of rows of pleats in the fronts, and full-on pleats in the back and sleeves, and a girl can wear see-through without anyone seeing too much! since "pleats" was the challenge, i started with a crinkled fabric, which is a kind of pleat in itself. accordion pleats are always in style, so a full back to the blouse seemed to bring contemporary and vintage together in one look. i have "pushed up" the left sleeve on her arm a little bit to show what the pleats look like bloused out. a pleather belt with silver buckle forms the curved peplum from front to back. the blouse could also be worn without the belt for a fuller, more A-shape and a more casual feel. Saint Laurent was also scandalous by dressing women in pants for evening wear and day wear. some establishments refused to allow admittance to women in pants! I chose white to contrast with the black of the top, and couldn't resist the pleats in the sides of the pant legs!. Blythe has just the figure to carry this look with grace, and with no bra, to ruin the flow of the fabric!
Judge 1
5, 3, 5 Wow! This is exactly what I thought of when I read Yves Saint Laurent and think you did a marvelous job on this challenge. The sheer is just enough but not cheap. The pants fit perfectly and the pleated is to die for...WELL DONE OVERALL!
Judge 2
3; 4; 4 Very nice use of pleats where one would normally see gathers and darts. Pleats for being so tiny are nice and even. Workmanship is great. Nice pressing job. I like it.
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 The pleats of the blouse, in combination with the belt, shape the peplum nicely. The textured fabric of the slacks allow the outfit transcend to evening wear.
Total points: 34

Entry 13 - Dot
Dot's collection: Fleur is all about femininity. Dressed in her pale, pleated lavender dress she’s ready for a formal lunch with her sweet Aunt Grace – she knows this is just the kind of sedate dressing that will win her approval. Her outfit has been carefully planned out from head to toe. Her hair is pulled back in a proper ponytail with pink and lavender ribbons. Her necklace is of little bakelite flowers that hold tiny crystals that may or may not be Swarovski. Her plain cream shawl has been spiced up with ribbon work, and her box purse features a floral bakelite charm and more pleats. The bodice of the dress has been hand appliquéd with her trademark lace, leaving the skirt uncovered to reveal all the pleating. The waistband features more pleats and a focal point bow that includes an embellished buckle made to look like an antique button. And, of course, she is wearing the perfect shoes especially designed by Sherrie Jo of Beary Tiny Treasures to compliment the entire ensemble.
Judge 1
3, 5, 4 I just think you're adorable...your ideas are SO cute...I don;t know whether to eat them or beg you to make them inmy size. I adore it! The pleasts are great...my only complaint, the lace in the back overlapping could be a bit neater...
Judge 2
3; 4; 4 I like this entry, I love the use of pleats in the bows. The colors came through this time around. Workmanship is very nice.
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 The horizontal pleating on the bodice fits well with the lace overlay, and compliments the vertical pleated skirt. The ribbon trim on the wrap pulls the eye away from the dress, where the wrap without the trim would compliment the dress better.
Total points: 33

Entry #14 - Carolyn
Carolyn's collection: No narrative.
Judge 1
1, 1, 1 While the two piece suggests a modern feel to this, I just don't think it's cleanly done. The muslin is very muted and takes away from any kind of style. I think I get your approach...it's just not well done.
Judge 2
2; 1; 1 Cute idea, pleats are pressed, maybe next time we can turn the edges to the inside of the garment. Needs more finishing. I do see improvement in the workmanship though.
Judge 3
3, 3, 3, Crisp pleats in linen and lace, looks cool and comfortable. Like the asymmetrical hemline.
Total points: 16

Entry #15 - Durelle
Durelle's collections: A number of features will flow throughout my collection including, leather, lace, top stitching, silk, chains, gears, buckles and straps with hints of Neo Edwardian / Victorian influences as well as a understated military flavor. This collection is street ready to wear for a young client who is hip to "Steampunk." It is not intended to be over the top or harsh; rather it enjoys being fashionable in a more sedate way, with subtle references to Victorian elements updated contemporarily. My collection is all about separates, and this entry is no exception. This one features a 3-piece outfit. The drop waist skirt is made from leather in old gold. Pleated gold lace is attached to the skirt hemline, along with piping in a very narrow stripe. The gold silk blouse has long lovely sleeves narrow at the shoulders and very full at the cuffs with a deep V-neck and sheered at the shoulder. A reoccurring theme throughout my collection is topstitching and it is featured here again on this uniquely designed rust silk vest. When cinched up with the sewn in leather corset, folded pleats are created which resembles a little Victorian bustle. The front of the vest is deeply cut under the breast and shows off a double row of buttons and decorative elements include a set of chains similar to a watch fob worn in Victorian times. Since this is the Timekeeper, it’s the perfect accent for my client. Finishing off the "Timekeeper" is an adorable handbag, created from the same leather as the skirt and accented with the same narrow stripe from the skirts piping. A rust tassel completes the look.
Judge 1
2, 2, 5 The pleats are gorgeous. The colors make it stand out even more and I just think you have created something very pristine. I wish I never heard the word steampunk b/c I don't you're in that direction...and it's clouding my mind when I see your designs. This challenge for you was executed brilliantly and your sewing alone is phenomenal.
Judge 2
3; 4; 3 overall nice. I like the pleated effect. Love the blouse. Looks like there might be more folding going on in this entry than I can reaaly see in the pictures. The purse looks good too.
Judge 3
3, 4, 4, The warm, rich colors mix well with the various textures. The vest pulls the blouse into a pleated bustle providing interest in the back, while the chains provide detail on the front.
Total points: 30

Entry #16 - Jason
Jason's collection: This is a two layered, pleated turquoise satin babydoll style cocktail dress, with white silk dupioni bodice and trim, including a matching printed underskirt and black/gold braid accent.
Judge 1
5, 4, 3 I can see this dress at the Oscars..from head on, it's stunning...from the side it could be construed as maternity b/c of the girth. I if you drew back from the pretty pleats a little it is couture heaven! I think using this color scheme is working for you and I really like your interpretation and originality.
Judge 2
4; 4; 3 Nice use of pleats on pleats. love the hemline. workamnship is nice, not sure about the particular trime used. Yes, the piece needs something there, but maybe somthing else.
Judge 3
3, 4, 4 The pleats becoming more diagonal at the sides and in the back add a lot to the design, as does the hemline which nearly folds into pleats as it hangs.
Total points: 34

Entry #17 - Sharon
Sharon's collection: Ell is happy in her perky little outfit. She is wearing a sweater top, a pleated skirt edged in lace, a little vest in a cherry print with buttons and loops, a red bead bracelet, black stockings and little slip-on black shoes.
Judge 1
2, 2, 3 Again it's a bit too much..the overshirt is not necessary b/c your skirt and top are perfect on their own. It's simplicity is what makes it SO nice. I wish you'd take that into consideration next time b/c your ideas are great! Colors are cute and funky and I dig it!
Judge 2
3; 3; 4 While I do really like this entry, the pleats are not the main focal point to me. I love the vest. Workmanship is very nice.
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 Good color combination, the color of the cherries help bring out the color in the skirt. Nice tiny pleats at the waistline.
Total points: 27

Entry #18 - Sylvia - THE WINNER

Entry #19 - Allison
Alison's collection: Naturally the first thing to come to mind was "a tartan" "a tartan schoolgirl skirt." I moved away from that and have no idea how I came up with the lace. I started with an idea of a skirt with sewn-down pleats along the top, sewn down by the use of a floral appliqué, similar to that in the hakama-kimono piece, reduced in scale. Pleats are important to the hakama (project 1, "Vintage") also, and the linen took them so perfectly: such crisp lovely fabric, even at over fifty years old. The pleats in this outfit for Evelyn are both knife pleats and box pleats. The fabric is one strip of lace, about 3 yards long, that I got for free from our table's freebie bag at IFDC this summer. The skirt morphed into a top; as I worked on it, I began to see it as a top, with the concept of pleats as structure, moving away from the idea of using an appliqué over the pelvic pleats to hold them down in a different way, an obvious way of tacking them down for structure. Meditating on pleats, I thought they were usually used as a textural element, though their use as a structural element must have developed first. With skirts, I have worked backward in my mind: a pleated skirt, but we'll attach all the pleats at the waist down the hip to make it look better, rather than seeing them as a thicker fabric where they're sewn down -- a structural element -- and give way to looser fabric where not. When it became a top, the idea was to have the sewn down knife pleats (one box pleat center front to reverse direction of pleats) at the midriff to provide a bustier-like structure. the top, bust, and bottom, waist would flare out, a peplum at the bottom and perhaps the flared out part at the bust being like the top of paper wrapping a bouquet: filling some of the flare with red ribbon roses. First, I had used all my red ones up and had only white; second, it seemed less and less a good idea and I started thinking on ways to cover Evelyn's breasts. A body suit is in the works, though not planned for the outfit. I had several under-garment possibilities if I needed one to attach the top pleats to. I finally settled on using the top pleats to define structure further, while still leaving them open. One of these outdoor shots shows the top of the top from above, to show how coverage worked out. That is pleats015.jpg here. The skirt is a simple box-pleated skirt with a "slip" underneath, which is an unpleated (minimally pleated just for shape) extension of the unpleated lace, wrapped around to give a little more coverage. Neither Evelyn nor I, at her age, are especially concerned with coverage, although we know it is a necessary social convention -- even more so than when I was her age. "Minimum legal" is our by-line. No shoes; the dress is so light and airy and Evelyn so refreshed after having knee and shoulder surgery today, that she was hopping around on both feet, toes pointed, singing "I'm a ballerina, I'm a ballerina," with me behind her sobbing, "I'm a ballena." She struck quite a few exuberant poses today, demonstrating how she could extend and hold her limbs with grace and ease. It was all in all, a lovely day: I even managed a walk with Fidel and he kept us company taking pics of Evelyn and in this last photo he was rushing me off to play some ball. Earlier in the day, Braveheart, one of our cats, came in sniffing around Evelyn and said, "Mmmm, I like this black net stuff with all the silver and gold stars on it. It looks just right for me to lie down on." I'd had that out for a possible pleated black overskirt, shorter than the white one, a possible pleated black slip or two to flare out the white one, and/or a possible small pleated fan-like bit at the top of the bodice for coverage. We went with all white and I told Braveheart I might make him a bow tie out of some of the star-spangled black.
Judge 1
2, 5, 4 I really saw this and just immediately thought madonna circe like a virgin mixed with harajuku mixed with lingerie and I could keep going. I think your pleats are great, I think your design is top notch and original, I do feel some color was needed to bring you that pizazz the last outfit had.
Judge 2
3; 3; 3 The pleats make for a nice fit, originality is ok, pressing is pretty good
Judge 3
3, 4, 4 The sewn pleats of the bustier style top giving way to a peplum at the waist is an interesting way to use the pleats
Total points: 31

Entry #20 - Dawn
Dawn's collection: I'm designing for Ellowyne Wilde. She is a modern girl who loves vintage elements and fabrics in her clothing. She is all for the current trend of repurposing and recycling fabrics. I plan to incorporate elements from different decades in her clothing. To keep my collection cohesive for this second challenge, I've used the same or similar recycled fabrics and colors as in the first. The low waist on skirt reflects the dropped waist on the first dress. The sleeve hems also carry the feeling of the skirt hem on the first dress. I have added a knitted shrug because I plan to have knitted elements in some of the fashions. The dropped stitch ribbing of the shrug also reflects the curved pleats in the skirt. The stitched-open pleats in the waist of the skirt are meant to resemble a vintage style of pleated ribbon used in Victorian and earlier clothing. The belt is made from a piece of vintage metallic trim.
Judge 1
2, 2, 3 Your color palatte might b my favorite. I don't think you needed the black shrug b/c the print could stand alone, especially with the solid skirt and tights. The pleats are nice but could have been cleaner in the sense that the skirt should be micro mini to compensate for large pleats. Not bad at all, good good job.
Judge 2
3; 3; 3 Cute idea. would have liked to have seen the pleats pressed better. Shrug is ok in the front, not sure what I think of the back of the shrug?
Judge 3
3, 3, 4 Interesting way to attach the pleats of the skirt to the yoke so that they look open on the top. The plum tights bring out the plum colors in the top, as the skirt pulls out the green.
Total points: 26

Entry #21 - Peggy
Peggy's collection: The dress is of silk dupioni and silk chiffon. The chartreuse inset is horizontally pleated while the over skirt is vertically pleated to the side and then gathered in the back. It has a black underskirt and is fully lined except for the sleeves. I don't know how well it will show up in the pictures but the silk chiffon is a plaid of green and gold on black.
Judge 1
2, 2, 4 Again I like this. I just think you need to take an outfit and design something. Some originality is needed to really make your line one of a kind.
Judge 2
4; 3; 4 I like this. Unique quality in the horizontal pleats, nice. Nicely pressed, nice use of color
Judge 3
4, 4, 4 The vertical and horizontal pleating compliment each other. The skirt color helps bring out the green in the overskirt and bodice. Good fit.
Total points: 31

Entry #22 - Michaela
Michaela's collection: I thought I would step up to this challenge by stepping the pleats of my skirt. A mini skirt of yellow, red, white and black tartan has a stepped hem with a black tulle underskirt with red super fine edging. The outfit also consists of a white cotton shirt, red/black dupion silk tie and moire taffeta waist cincher with silver embroidered faux busk (stud & loop) at the centre front.
Judge 1
1, 1, 3 This is not going to fit into your line considering the last challenge. Your pleats are great and I feel like this is right out of Austin Powers. Very cute outfit, very nice idea just not continuous with your overall theme.
Judge 2
3;3;4 I like the over all look, very interesting hemline. You even got the plaids to match up pretty good - something that is not always easy to do.
Judge 3
3, 4, 4 Great matching of the plaids in construction and pleating. Interesting hemline.
Total points: 26

Entry #23 - Jannie
Jannie's collection: Pantyhose, Pleated Hip-hugger mini Skirt, Form fitting turtleneck zipped Shirt, Lined Jacket with pleated back inset and pleated collar, Pleated hat band with ostrich feather, Earrings and necklace, Shoes especially designed by Sherrie Jo of Beary Tiny Treasures The panty hose are made of a natural our way stretchable mesh and are designed to be used with the hip hugger design skirt. They are held up by elastic at the hips. The pleated hip-hugger mini-skirt is made from pink and brown pinwale corduroy with a hounds-tooth pattern. Using the corduroy made it necessary to be very careful of the nap of the fabric. The hounds-tooth pattern also made it necessary to watch the fabric carefully. The bottom part of the skirt is a straight pleat around the bottom. The hip- hugger portion is designed on the diagonal. The front also has a diagonal cut with an inset on brown satin piping and highlighted with 3 heart shaped buttons. The back is also designed on the diagonal with the closure in the middle. The form fitting turtleneck zipped shirt is made using a ribbed cotton and lycra dance fabric for its ability to stretch and return to its original shape as Pru’s hands are much larger than her arms. I also chose to use a zipper for the closure for easy of getting Pru in and out of the shirt and it also would leave no gaps or pulls like snaps would. Lined jacket with pleated back inset and pleated collar is made using a solid linen like pink material in combination with insets of pleated pink and brown pinwale corduroy with a hounds-tooth pattern, brown satin piping, brown satin, and pink satin lining. The Jacket is cut on a princess cut with brown satin piping running front to back in one piece on both sides. Located in both side seams of the jacket are hidden fully functional pockets. The back portion of the collar was pleated before being sewn into place. The pleated inset in the back of the jacket is offset by a band of brown satin with 2 pink hearts. The pleats are free flowing. The sleeves of the jacket are fuller at the bottom which allows for them to be turned up which is now and was popular in the 1970’s. Pleated hat band with ostrich feather is made from pink and brown pinwale corduroy with a hounds-tooth pattern, light pink organdy ribbon and ¼ inch brown with pink polka dot ribbon. I wanted Pru’s hair to be up this time and I just could not get it right until I took some of the scrap material and then….. WOW… Jo Ann Worley!!! And Africa- Me!!! So I started pleating and I found the trim and then I remembered Camp Kirkland (famous orchestrator before a performance) told me to put feathers in my hair. So I put feathers in Pru’s hair! And Voila! Earrings and necklace are made of real mother of pearl and Swarovski crystals. The necklace uses a barrel clasp. Shoes are so IMPORTANT!!! And these are perfect!!! Sherrie Jo of Beary Tiny Treasures made these awesome shoes for me! They are just perfect don’t you think?
Judge 1
3, 3, 5 Keeping with your last diesign this is great! I think the pleats are SO well done and I really like the piping on the jacket. The little pink accents make this just so special. Good job!
Judge 2
4; 4; 4 Probably one of my favorite entries this time. Loved the use of pleats in the cuffs and on the hat. Feathers were great. LOVED the pressing of the pleats.
Judge 3
4, 4, 5 The pattern in the pleating is well matched. The pleating on the collar and back add interest to the jacket that the piping alone could not accomplish. Fewer feathers in the hair would let the hat design be more apparent.
Total points: 36

"Fashions fade, style is eternal." -Yves Saint Laurent

Next week, on November 27, those of us who are American will celebrate Thanksgiving. Many of us may not be online very much; rather we'll be spending time with our family and local friends. But, just as it's always fun to have these celebrations, I'm sure it will be equally fun to return to this competition and our online friends.

But, maybe in our down time, we'll have some time between cooking and visiting to take a few minutes to regroup, research, and rethink our positions in this competition. If we haven't received the critique we've hoped for, we might start to look in different directions for more advanced inspiration. And, if we've been successful, we may want something new to infuse into our game plan to ensure our continued success. Or, we simply may be looking for something that continues to keep us true to our unique vision. Whatever our goal, a new insight into fashion success can always inspire.

Towards that end, I thought we all might enjoy looking at some of these fashion videos featuring 2009 runway showings. After all, we never know when a simple thing like a unique collar, hemline, or even an accessory might lead us back to the sketch pad to formulize the perfect item for that next challenge. And, runway shows offer more than just fashions - they show us how to style! So, let's go - let's finish up our Dolman offerings, and then take time to sit back and enjoy these shows. Remember, the most important thing about creating art should be fun!

Academy of Art